Thursday, September 9, 2010

resounding



The Old City is like a house. What happens outside your windows sounds like it is happening inside your room. Children loudly pattering through the narrow cobblestone streets, carts rolled over the stones, windows and doors opening, rapid Arabic, pigeons. Tonight in addition to the dog fights and cat calls and feet on flagstones there is the constant drone of male voices repeating the same one-liner, sing-song. I only understand the word Allah. There are also the sporadic explosions of fireworks around us. Some so close they shake our minds, so close we cannot see them, they only happen in our closet... so to speak.
Earlier, as the sun was beginning to color these hills of Nazareth pinks and oranges, Philip and I hiked up hundreds of stairs to the ridge above the Old City. We met a young boy who, in broken English, said we should have binoculars before speeding away on his scooter. Upon returning to the streets in the Old City we noticed hubbub and crowds of people around little eating joints. The most fabulous was a local place full of windows... every table was set with multiple dishes: lebnah, salads, etc. We realized they were all waiting for the Moment. We bought some shawarma and falafal but carried it away in a bag. Philip was delighted by the upright spit of delicious shaved meat and all the people waiting for the final call to prayer.
As we scurried back up the hill to our home, we passed men around low tables in the narrow market (sook) dishing up food but only drinking water. At that moment the Call began. It was a surreal moment to be hurrying up largely deserted, narrow streets, to see little communities of hungry people ready to celebrate food and over all, engulfing us, even sinking into our bodies, this powerful call washing through the alleys, calling us to remember. For some, it was permission to eat, a chance to celebrate with wild fireworks, for others a call to prayer?
It seems one cannot be in a Muslim context without contemplating a dedication to remembrance of God in daily life. However sincere they may be, I am challenged.
B

2 comments:

Rebekah Luree said...

Thanks for posting and drawing me in to your life there. Shawarma is amazing. So glad you're there safe and settling in. Binoculars is a pretty amazing word for someone who speaks broken English -- guessing he did a little sign language :).

Anonymous said...

you are right about the binoculars. He said the word in Arabic a couple times and used sign language - at first we thought he meant camera...
Betsy